Restaurant review: Honey & Co

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There is no better place to find sunshine on a chilly evening than Honey & Co.

Tucked away in Fitzrovia, this tiny middle-eastern restaurant is adorned with bright blue floor tiles and homemade jams. Tables are squeezed so tightly together that you’re knocking elbows with your neighbours, but this adds to the cosy feel – just come prepared to discover a little more about your fellow diners than anticipated!

Happily, the food is as unpretentious as the setting. Our table was soon creaking under an extensive mezze platter, in which every dish displayed expertly balanced flavours and textures. Rich labneh was cut through by a chilli topping, falafels were livened by red pepper, and a simple salad offset earthy beetroot with sharp grapefruit, crunchy radishes, peppery dill, and sweet pomegranate molasses.

For main course, a Su Boregi, or Turkish ‘lasagne’, proved slightly stodgy. Star of the show went instead to Ben’s cumin chicken with freekah and goat’s cheese. Afflicted by a serious case of ‘food envy’, I snuck forkfuls of perfectly cooked chicken steeped in delicate lemon and herb flavours. It was that elusive combination: both filling and refreshing.

To finish, a dense dark chocolate slice was elevated by blood orange and caramelised pecans, whilst cheesecake was given a twist with a kadafi nest base and topped with blueberries, almonds and honey. Once again these dishes demonstrated that, in a crowded restaurant scene where chefs compete with ever-more unusual flavour combinations, Honey & Co is unafraid to celebrate simple ingredients.