Restaurant review: Katie and Kim's Kitchen

Katie & Kim's

Katie and Kim’s Kitchen is not a fancy cafe. There are no kitsch decorations or pretensions to hipster chic. It consists of a small dining area in front of a simple open kitchen, with stable doors connecting to the next door greengrocer. There is just one enormous, beautiful wooden table on which customers gather, throw down their hats and scarves, and spread out their morning papers. It feels, rather charmingly, like sitting around a family dining table.

The short blackboard menu revolves around a set of key ingredients: eggs, bacon, seasonal greens, bread. Perhaps there will be bacon on sourdough with tarragon aoili, date chutney, greens and eggs. Or tomato butter beans, also on sourdough, also with poached eggs and greens. Delivered on chipped china, the food here speaks of home-style cooking that is generous, hearty and eager to please.

To drink, tea and coffee arrives in sturdy little bowls that are perfect to wrap your hands around in cold weather. We order hot ginger with a little lemon and sugar as the ideal tonic for our streaming colds and sore throats. For the sweet tooth, there are custard tarts and chocolate-orange truffles the size of golf balls.

Yet, the foremost reason to visit Katie and Kim’s is for their legendary cheese scones. I could talk at length about the sturdiness from the wholemeal flour or the slight, acidic tang from yogurt. But really what makes these scones great is a heft of cheese and a hand that isn’t shy with the rosemary. They would be perfect on their own. They are even better topped with eggs, a speckle of sea salt and more of those greens soused in butter. Simple ingredients, expertly cooked. 

Over the coming months, I hope to return often enough to become a part of the family around Katie and Kim’s dining table.

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